Hidden Milan: Beyond the Duomo and Into the Heart
Traffic Cardinal Traffic Cardinal  wrote June 18, 2025

Hidden Milan: Beyond the Duomo and Into the Heart

Traffic Cardinal Traffic Cardinal  wrote June 18, 2025
21 min read
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Lasciate ogne speranza, voi ch’intrate.

Dante, La Divina Commedia

Whenever we write about Italy (which doesn't happen often, by the way), we are always inclined to use some pompous title, something akin to the ones opening long and diffusive articles, for example, In the Footsteps of Genius: Milan Through the Eyes of Caravaggio & Da Vinci, or Where Genius Lingered: A Journey Through Milan’s Artistic Soul.

Luckily, we are not devoid of common sense, and we implore you to halt and think beyond the familiar concepts of famous painters and musicians. What does Milan mean to you? Perhaps, this bustling city encompasses every concept Italy is known for: exquisite cuisine, refined wines, and all forms and shapes of art. Perhaps, it is the cobbled streets that enchant you. Perhaps, there’s something else entirely, something intimate you aren’t ready to share... Either way, it is our duty to present a comprehensive and relatively brief guide that will cater to all your artistic, gastronomic, or cultural needs: after all, you aren’t staying long — busy, we know! — and eager to see the real gems. So, shall we begin?

Chapter 1. Architecture

Where do we start? When we were given an assignment to write a guide on Milan, we were exhilarated. Then, a trifle intimidated. Now, we are out of our depth because Italy possesses sights galore, especially when it comes to architecture. Especially, if it is a cultural center we’re talking about. Especially, if this cultural center was founded in approximately 590 BC. Nonetheless, we restrained ourselves from losing our marbles and prepared a list of edifices and buildings you absolutely ought to see.

Duomo di Milano

Italy is a center of Catholicism, and it would be highly inappropriate to ignore the elephant in the room — a temple in the middle of the city. Of course, you can visit it to whet your spiritual appetites, but this article doesn’t mention this architectural wonder to solely inspire your religious endeavors.

The Duomo (source: Wikipedia.com)
The Duomo (source: Wikipedia.com)

The Duomo, a major part of Milan’s identity, which allows you to immerse yourself in the city’s past, helps you connect with the culture and national history. The cathedral took nearly six centuries to complete: the construction began in 1386, and the final strokes were added in 1965.

By the way, the Duomo is the largest church in the Italian Republic, and it can only compete with St. Peter’s Basilica in the Vatican, situated outside Rome. If you’re a fan of Gothic architecture, you are welcome to admire intricate designs, statues, spires, gargoyles, stained glass windows, artworks, and carvings. If this is the first time you spot a Gothic cathedral, prepare to gape because the soaring facade and grand interiors are truly awe-inspiring.

The view (source: touristitaly.com)
The view (source: touristitaly.com)

But this isn't the end of it. Once you’re sated with religious relics and artworks, feel free to visit the Duomo museum (there’s a pass that includes it) and the crypt. You will be pleasantly surprised by the luxury and idyll guarding the peaceful sleep of the perished saints. However, if the sight is a little unsettling, take an elevator or climb the stairs to the rooftop for a panoramic view of Milan.

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II

Milan isn't just another pretty city on a greeting card. In fact, it has a character and somnolent dignity streaming through the Gothic spires of the Duomo down the pillars of the Colonne di San Lorenzo, and into the crypts hidden away from the prying eyes of non-believers.

This mettle may either enthrall you with Casa Panigarola, Loggia degli Osii, or modern Zaha Hadid's creations or flummox you with brutal structures of Torre Velasca and Universita Luigi Bocconi. The point is that you won't remain unmoved: this Italian city has a unique quality of breaking your inner carapace as a lark and nestling in your soul.

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II (source: TripAdvisor.com)
Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II (source: TripAdvisor.com)

As we want to provide the most multifaceted experience, we’d love to put brutalist architecture aside and invite you to a shopping arcade that will render you speechless for days on end.

The Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, wittily nicknamed il salotto di Milano (this lovely moniker comes from its importance as a common Milanese meeting and dining place), is a must-visit destination, so mark it on your map. Consider it a short respite on your long way; have a cup of coffee, observe luxury retailers selling haute couture, jewelry, books, and paintings, and get mesmerized by the glass-and-iron dome, intricate mosaics, and beautiful vaulted ceilings. Pretend you're in a movie: you're transported into a space where fashion, art, and history collide, so you can inhale Milan's old-world charm and modern, cosmopolitan vibe.

The House of the Devil

Let your eyes rest after the embellishments galore you witnessed inside and outside the intimidating Duomo. Palazzo Acerbi, the mysterious — and, might we add, notorious place — presents itself as a regular and austere edifice compared to the Baroque style of the time. Even architecture enthusiasts may have difficulty searching for a clue to its style: the curved balconies and the lion heads are the only distinctive feature that gives a hint.

Palazzo Acerbi (source: thealternativeguide.com)
Palazzo Acerbi (source: thealternativeguide.com)

Now, onto the notorious part. We entitled this paragraph The House of the Devil for a reason.

Palazzo Acerbi received its notoriety because of its owner, Milanese senator Ludovico Acerbi. It's hard to say whether he left a mark in history as a senator, but he certainly was the legendary party animal. Good man Ludovico threw sumptuous parties and went around the city with a carriage and dozens of servants in green livery. So what now? Do we condemn all people who love hanging out with friends? Um, obviously not, but here’s a hitch: plague was raging in the streets of Milan. The rumors said that even at the height of the disease, when the plague seemed to scathe everyone, the only ones immune were Acerbi himself and his guests. Back in time, it could only mean one thing: demonic presence. Senator Acerbi was considered to be the reincarnation of the devil.

Whether you believe this tale or not, Palazzo Acerbi is a peculiar landmark that shapes the cultural image of the city, so perhaps you want to add this place to your list and expand your visual gallery of the Baroque style variations.

Chapter 2. Museums

When we approached this paragraph, we realized that we had roped oursevles into a thankless pursuit that may lead us nowhere. We're in Italy, for god's sake! Every street is a museum! You snake into a cleft between buildings, and you find a gem: here's Leonardo's court; there's the Devil's Column; a Caravaggio in an old ramshackle church, and, as the icing on the cake, a Canova scoring a double whammy on your exhausted, overstimulated mind.

That's why the list below may or may not comprise the more popular options, but you will not be disappointed: as you're most likely down to the wire, you want to see the jewel of Milan, and I am ready to present.

Santa Maria delle Grazie

Technically, Santa Maria delle Grazie is a church, so it shouldn't be mentioned in the part dedicated to museums. However, there's a riddle for you, we brought it up here for a reason. For what reason?

Is it because we like churches? Oh, yes, but that's beside the point. Is it because the building is proclaimed a UNESCO World Heritage site? True, but this isn't what makes us so excited. Any more ideas? Okay, one word: Leonardo.

Santa Maria delle Grazie (source: TripAdvisor.com)
Santa Maria delle Grazie (source: TripAdvisor.com)

This innuendo nudges you in the right direction, so even if you aren't an inveterate church-goer, you might want to experience your first slack-jawed moment. Santa Maria delle Grazie is the place where you can get acquainted — in person — with Leonardo da Vinci's masterpiece, the most iconic and revered work of art in the world, The Last Supper.

The emotional intensity of the moment, Leonardo's unparalleled skill in conveying human emotion, innovative use of perspective, vivid detail, groundbreaking composition, and overall artistic brilliance made it a pilgrimage for many.

The Last Supper (source: Wikipedia.com)
The Last Supper (source: Wikipedia.com)

But, even if you have no interest in Leonardo's work — not all of us relish the sfumato technique or religious motif, a recurring theme in Renaissance art — you can still explore the church where the painting is located. Santa Maria della Grazie is a stunning example of Renaissance architecture, with a harmonious blend of Gothic and Renaissance elements, including beautiful cloisters and intricate frescoes. Step into history, tune into the peaceful ambiance, and reflect on Milan's cultural and artistic legacy, dissolving in the slight scent of frankincense.

Castello Sforzesco

Castello Sforzesco is a way to cheat our self-imposed top-3 museum approach because it combines many museums under its roof, but we'll get back to it shortly; let's start with a speck of history instead.

Castello Sforzesco (source: yesmilano.it)
Castello Sforzesco (source: yesmilano.it)

Throughout the centuries, this grand complex has worn many hats: it tried the role of a defensive stronghold, served as a ducal residence, and at some point in history, it was turned into military barracks. It didn't last long either: the effusive and ever-changing nature of the place struck once again, and its magnificent interiors were revamped to host Milano’s Municipal museums and other cultural institutions.

The phrase cultural hub doesn't do this place justice, but it does define the identity of this treasure trove. You can drop by the Museum of Ancient Art to admire the equestrian tomb of Bernabò Visconti. If Pinacoteca strikes your fancy, you will undoubtedly be enchanted by masterpieces by Mantegna, Bellini, Lotto, and Tintoretto. Those whose curiosity is piqued by antique furniture can witness a Furniture Collection with pieces from the 15th to the 20th century, and if you want something new but aren't sure what might hit home in terms of culture and art, attend the Museum of Decorative Arts, the Collection of Musical Instruments (one of the largest in Europe), and don’t miss the Trivulzio Tapestries, Armory, Prehistoric Museum, and the Egyptian Museum.

By the way, you absolutely must not miss Sala delle Asse and Pietà Rondanini Museum. As one ticket gets you access to all the museums within the castle, prioritize those two.

Museo del Novecento

Be honest: are you feeling a little art-fatigued? After soaking in endless Renaissance brilliance, golden halos, and saints with solemn stares, your brain might be begging for something a little bolder, weirder, and — dare we say — more relatable. The art pieces we’re going to mention here might be less comprehensible in terms of mindset but more on point from the contemporary point of view. Enter the Museo del Novecento: Milan’s temple to 20th-century Italian art, where things get abstract, explosive, and unapologetically modern.

Inside the museum (source: TripAdvisor)
Inside the museum (source: TripAdvisor)

Housed in the ultra-cool Palazzo dell’Arengario, just steps from the Duomo, this museum is a breath of fresh (and slightly rebellious) air. Inside, you’ll find works by modern masters like Lucio Fontana — yes, the guy who slashed his canvases — Giorgio de Chirico, king of the metaphysical mood, and Umberto Boccioni, the poster child of Italian Futurism who literally tried to paint motion. The collection leaps between movements (Futurism, Surrealism, Abstract, Conceptual, to name a few) with all the drama, confusion, and brilliance you’d expect from a century that gave us both the moon landing and Warhol.

So if you’re ready to swap angels for avant-garde, saints for slashed canvases, and traditional for totally unexpected, the Museo del Novecento is your next stop. It’s messy, it’s meaningful, and it’ll leave you thinking — not just about art, but about how the modern world makes (and breaks) sense.

Chapter 3. Local Delicacies

No matter how much we admire art and revere geniuses of the past, there comes a moment in every cultural expedition — somewhere between your 87th marble statue and the fifth fresco featuring dramatic clouds and gazing saints — when your body rebels. Your feet ache, your brain is full, and your stomach begins composing passive-aggressive symphonies. Let's adjourn the cultural: the physical is to step forward.

Cucina Franca

A fresh face in Milan’s food scene, Cucina Franca opened in the summer of 2024 and has quickly carved out a spot as a go-to for locals who take their meals seriously. Helmed by chef Facundo Castellani, a Mirazur-trained talent with a knack for turning vegetables into main characters, the restaurant somehow feels both casual and refined. It’s the kind of place where a weeknight dinner with friends turns into a four-hour hangout, complete with second (or third) bottles and a shared dessert you definitely said you wouldn’t order.

If it's not enough to pique your curiosity, let us try another trick. There's only one best way to experience this place to the full: go all in with the six-course tasting menu for just €40. It often changes, but the chef never fails to deliver on creativity and balance — and it’s an absolute bargain for the quality.

Reservations are essential, especially on weekends. Find it tucked away on Via Friuli, not far from the buzz of central Milan, but with just enough breathing room to feel like a hidden gem. Come hungry. Leave happy. Possibly a little tipsy (and definitely planning your return.)

Ribot Borghetto

If the delicate approach is not your cup of tea, try bold, classic flavors with a touch of elegance at Ribot Borghetto. This restaurant is a tribute to the best delicacies of Italian cuisine, offering an excellent blend of authenticity, sophistication, and a welcoming atmosphere.

The menu is rich and varied, with standout dishes like the iconic Fiorentina, known for its mouthwatering tenderness. Every dish is thoughtfully prepared, and the extensive wine list is perfectly curated to complement the rich flavors.

The only flaw of this charming place is the prices, as they tend to lean on the higher side, but the delectable food, exceptional service, and captivating atmosphere make it a wonderful investment. Besides, it's all for the sake of the unique experience, isn't it?..

Autem

Now, our personal favorite: a dining experience that transcends the ordinary and extends beyond the plate.

Autem Milano's chef, Luca Natalini, found a way to create an immersive journey into Italian cuisine, where the ingredients dictate the menu. This philosophy is embodied in their Carta Bianca tasting menu, a dynamic 15-course exploration of the freshest produce, meats, and seafood available.

But your immersive journey starts the moment you step at the threshold of the restaurant: the open kitchen beckons you to watch the magic happen. It’s all very new Milan in vibe: design-forward, ingredient-obsessed, and just a little bit rock and roll.

By the way, if you find yourself absolutely mesmerized by Autem's aesthetics, sign up for their “Take Me to the Market” experience. You’ll sip coffee with the chef, stroll through Porta Romana’s farmers’ market, and then head back to the kitchen to cook what you’ve picked. That's how you make the most of it while abroad.

Chapter 4. Lago Maggiore

Luckily for you, we're almost done, but there's one last gem we couldn't ignore. As you're attending the Affiliate Expo conference, unfurling at Lago Maggiore, you might want to know what recreational activities are in store for you, the networking guru of the day.

Lago Maggiore (source: sopranovillas.com)
Lago Maggiore (source: sopranovillas.com)

Spellbinding beauty aside, Lake Maggiore lures nature lovers and athletes alike. While the first can imbibe the glorious landscape shielded by mountains that keep the cold winds at bay and enjoy a cozy retreat, the second can explore hiking, biking, golf, or horseback riding.

Does it strike your fancy? No? Okay, we'll resort to the real showstoppers, the eleven islands of the lake. From the Borromean Islands, including the iconic Isola Bella, Isola Madre, and Isola dei Pescatori, to the castles of Cannero, which look like they’ve been plucked from the pages of a fairy tale. And don't forget the tranquil Isola di St. Giovanni — where conductor Arturo Toscanini lived like royalty in the 17th-century Palazzo Borromeo.

So, whether you're into nature, history, or just pretending to be a noble in a centuries-old palace, Lake Maggiore has it all — and a little more.

Affiliate Expo Details

Lago Maggiore is an enticing destination for many reasons, but we know you’re eager to stay there for a while because of the invigorating conference scheduled for July 4. Find the details below to plan your visit!

Date: 4-5 July, 2025

Location: Lake Maggiore

Venue: Grand Hotel Dino

Tickets:

  • VIP Ticket: €805

  • VIP + Hotel: €1560

  • Standard: €520

Ticket prices
Ticket prices

Wrapping Up

Well, there you have it. Your ultimate and relatively short guide to Milan, the city where history, art, food, and fashion collide in the most stylish way possible. First, you gape at the Duomo; then you saunter across the streets of the Brera district, getting lost in the darkest corners; you discover a restaurant and indulge in a plate of risotto so perfect it can make you weep, and after that, you dare plunge deeper into the blend of ancient and modern which will always keep you mesmerized.

Go ahead! Take in the sights, taste the flavors, and live the lifestyle. Milan is ready to welcome you. Your adventure starts here — and it’ll end in unforgettable memories.

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